Last night, at Joseph Altuzarra’s knockout Fall show, the makeup artist Diane Kendal was combining Mehron’s gold pigment with its mixing liquid to add a shimmering elongated detail to select models’ lids. It was a real beauty moment—novel in a week that has thus far favored pared-back looks with a focus on natural skin, without much fuss. There’s a place for that, of course. Practicality has been a major theme to come out of New York, and it has extended above the neck as well. But there needs to be a place for the mystical—the “fantasy,” as Altuzarra described the feel of his collection to Kendall—in beauty as well. And that fantasy doesn’t have to be theatrical, Kendall insisted, using a fan brush to paint imperfect, shimmering lines on top of smudged liner that glimmered in exactly the right way on the spotlit runway. “There’s a fine line between being creative and being heavy-handed,” added Kendall—an apt way to describe the perfectly placed gilded highlighter that she dusted atop cheekbones.
Achieving something that is both impactful and subtle is all in the details—and backstage at the New York Public Library, those details began with good skincare. Altuzarra’s entire cast was treated to mini facials using Ourself’s standout HA+ Replenishing Serum, which deeply hydrates parched complexions; cryo globes provided some much-needed de-puffing after five days of back-to-back shows while a once-over with SolaWave’s healing red-light wand helped create a plump and primed base for Kendall’s contouring. Hairstylist Jawara’s “just out of the shower” waves, which varied from molded ridges with messy lengths to flat twists for girls with textured hair–and a few sculpted tendrils that peaked out of balaclavas and one gorgeous marigold hooded jersey gown—added to the considered touches. It was giving full-look glamour, and we love to see it.