Backstage at Victoria Beckham’s spring show in Paris, the beauty look lifted spirits—and eyebrows. Arches crafted by makeup artist Diane Kendal were designed to imbue a sense of confidence as models strode past the cloister garden in Paris’s Museum of the Armed Forces Health Service.
Rather than pop culture’s now-familiar icy peroxide arches, Beckham’s fresh cast of models exhibited a diet version of the look. “We haven’t gone completely bleached, we’ve just lifted them a couple of shades lighter,” said Kendal of creating a monotone face with an otherworldly glow (thanks to Beckham’s Augustinus Bader collabs and new Reflect Highlighter Stick). “We did try out different things at the fitting, but in the end, she thought it was just more modern with the gorgeous, luminous skin,” she said.
Hairstylist Duffy had similar conversations with the designer. “Something that she said to me is that there’s a ’90s cool to the girl,” he explained of creating a relaxed mix where pushed-back lengths (like Gigi and Bella Hadid’s matching sister slicks) and braids are customized with whatever GHD waxes, oils, and shine sprays actually made sense for the individual—or completely untouched, like show-opener Rianne Van Rompaey’s red lengths. “The look was more about an attitude,” said Duffy. “We don’t want to see the hand of the hairdresser or makeup artist.”
Looking around, Kendal’s brow transformation corresponded with this logic. It was nearly invisible—edgy without being try-hard. She created it with actual bleach on Riahn Griffiths and Lottie Aaron. On others, like Mila van Eeten, Kendal’s alternative consisted of foundation brushed through brows for a temporary dye job. The cosmetic brow lift is a welcome alternative to an extreme bleach job for Sacha Quenby. She prefers Kendal’s clever foundation swap, which means no allergic reactions. “You can take it off when you’re done,” says Quenby. “I like the look; it’s cool—I just don’t want it to be permanent.”